Introduction:

Climbing is a versatile and exhilarating sport that offers various styles and techniques to conquer different types of terrain and challenges. Whether you're a beginner looking to learn the basics, or an experienced climber aiming to refine your skills, understanding the various climbing styles is essential. In this guide, we'll explain and teach the most common climbing styles to help you become confident in your ability to distinguish between them, increasing your knowledge of the sport as a whole. 

Climbing Movements

Most moves in climbing fall under two very specific categories, being 'Dynamic' and 'Static' movements.

Both dynamic and static climbing have their places in a climber's repertoire and can be used interchangeably depending on the characteristics of the climbing route itself. Experienced climbers often blend elements of both styles, using dynamic movements when necessary to overcome difficult sections while employing static techniques to conserve energy and navigate through more technical portions of a climb.

 

Dynamic Climbing:

• Characteristics: Dynamic climbing involves using more explosive movements, jumps, and momentum to progress up the route. Climbers may utilize dynamic movements such as dynos (dynamic moves where both feet and hands leave the holds simultaneously) or dynamic reaches to cover more distance between holds quickly.
• Advantages: Dynamic climbing can be effective for reaching distant or hard-to-reach holds, making it useful on routes with large gaps or where a quick, powerful move is necessary. It can also conserve energy by minimizing the time spent on difficult holds.
• Technique: It requires good timing, coordination, and the ability to generate and control momentum. Precise footwork and accurate hand placements are crucial to execute dynamic moves safely and effectively.
• Physical Requirements: Dynamic climbing requires the ability to generate power very quickly to move from one awkward position to another.  Grip is always a factor and being able to latch onto the hold you are moving to dynamically, is extremely important for continuing to climb.

Some examples of dynamic movements in climbing are more prominent but not limited too climbing styles such as, speed climbing, bouldering, and Sport climbing.

 

Static Climbing:

• Characteristics: Static climbing involves controlled and deliberate movements, focusing on maintaining constant contact with the rock and minimizing sudden or explosive motions. Climbers rely on slow and controlled movements, often using balance, body positioning, and careful weight shifting to progress up the route.
• Advantages: Static climbing emphasizes efficiency and conserving energy. It allows climbers to maintain stability and control, particularly on technical or delicate sections of a route. It's also beneficial when precise movements and balance are crucial.
• Technique: It requires a strong focus on balance, body positioning, and maintaining three points of contact with the rock whenever possible. Climbers use smaller, controlled movements to navigate through holds and sections of the route.
• Physical Requirements: Static climbing often requires you to hold strenuous positions as you move your hands from one hold to another.  Static climbing when grabbing on small crimps can require you to have a reasonable grip strength.

Examples of static climbing are more prominent but not limited too, ice climbing and slab wall climbs.

The choice between dynamic and static climbing often depends on the specific features of the route, the climber's strengths and preferences, and the most efficient way to tackle the challenges presented by the climb.  It is up to you to decide how and when to use these techniques, as well as you can. 

Strength and power plays a big part in each of these climbing styles.

1. Bouldering:

Bouldering is a style of climbing that involves short, intense routes called "problems." Climbers tackle these problems on bouldering walls or natural rock formations without the use of ropes or harnesses. Bouldering emphasizes strength, balance, and problem-solving as you navigate through a series of holds to reach the top or designated finishing point.

Some of the key important teaching points for bouldering includes:

1. Warm-Up:

   • Emphasize the importance of warming up before attempting challenging boulder problems.
   • Include dynamic stretches and activities to increase blood flow and flexibility.

2. Safety Briefing:

   • Teach proper falling techniques, including how to roll and land to minimize the risk of injury.
   • Emphasize the importance of clear landing zones and the use of crash pads.

3. Footwork:

   • Focus on precise foot placement and balance to improve climbing efficiency.
   • Teach climbers to use the inside edges of their climbing shoes for better grip.

4. Body Positioning:

   • Instruct climbers on proper body positioning, such as keeping the center of gravity close to the wall.
   • Emphasize the use of body tension to maintain control and conserve energy.

5. Reading Boulder Problems:

   • Teach climbers to analyze and read boulder problems before attempting them.
   • Discuss the importance of identifying key holds, resting positions, and sequences.

6. Strength and Conditioning:

   • Include exercises and drills to improve finger strength, grip strength, and overall body strength.
   • Emphasize the importance of maintaining a balanced training regimen.

7. Projecting and Problem Solving:

   • Encourage climbers to project challenging boulder problems, focusing on problem-solving and refining technique.
   • Teach strategies for breaking down problems into manageable sections.

8. Climbing Etiquette:

   • Emphasize proper etiquette at the bouldering area, including respecting others' space, waiting turns, and communicating effectively.

9. Spotting:

   • Instruct climbers on proper spotting techniques to ensure their safety during falls.
   • Emphasize the role of spotters in guiding falling climbers away from obstacles.

10. Rest and Recovery:

    • Teach the importance of rest between attempts to avoid overexertion and reduce the risk of injury.
    • Discuss strategies for active recovery, such as stretching and deep breathing.

11. Climbing Shoes and Gear:

    • Provide guidance on choosing appropriate climbing shoes and other optional gear.
    • Emphasize the importance of well-fitted shoes for better performance.

12. Understanding Grading Systems:

    • Explain bouldering grading systems to help climbers choose problems suitable for their skill level.
    • Discuss the subjective nature of grading and encourage climbers to challenge themselves.

13. Mental Focus:

    • Address mental aspects of bouldering, including staying focused, managing frustration, and developing a positive mindset.

14. Variety in Climbing:

    • Encourage climbers to try a variety of boulder problems, including different styles and angles of climbing surfaces.
    • Emphasize the benefits of well-rounded skill development.

15. Community and Enjoyment:

    • Highlight the social aspect of bouldering and the importance of enjoying the experience.
    • Encourage a supportive and inclusive climbing community.

 

 

2. Sport Climbing:

Sport climbing is a style that involves ascending established routes with fixed protection, such as bolts and anchors. Climbers carry their rope up with them, using quickdraws to clip into these bolts as they ascend. This style requires and emphasizes endurance and technique.

Some of the important teaching points for sport climbing include:

1. Basic Climbing Techniques:

   • Teach fundamental climbing techniques such as footwork, body positioning, and balance.
   • Emphasize the importance of using legs rather than relying solely on arm strength.

2. Belaying Skills:

   • Instruct climbers on proper belay techniques for sport climbing.
   • Emphasize the importance of a dynamic belay to soften the catch in the event of a fall.

3. Understanding Climbing Grades:

   • Explain the grading system for difficulty and help climbers understand route grades.
   • Discuss the importance of choosing routes suitable for their skill level.

4. Lead Climbing Skills:

   • Teach lead climbing techniques, including clipping quickdraws efficiently.
   • Emphasize the importance of route reading and planning while on the ground.

5. Falling Techniques:

   • Instruct climbers on how to fall safely, including tucking and rolling to minimize the risk of injury.
   • Help climbers overcome the fear of falling through progressive exposure.

6. Climbing Ethics and Etiquette:

   • Discuss proper behavior at the crag, including respecting other climbers, leaving no trace, and following established climbing ethics.

7. Equipment Familiarity:

   • Teach climbers about the different types of equipment used in sport climbing, including harnesses, helmets, carabiners, and quickdraws.
   • Emphasize the importance of regularly inspecting gear for wear and damage.

8. Climbing Safety Checks:

   • Emphasize the importance of safety checks before each climb, including checking knots, harnesses, and anchors.
   • Teach the buddy check system for ensuring each other's safety.

9. Route Reading:

   • Develop skills in route reading to anticipate holds, resting spots, and potential challenges.
   • Teach climbers to plan their climb strategically, identifying key sequences.

10. Resting Techniques:

    • Instruct climbers on how to find and use rest positions on the wall to conserve energy.
    • Emphasize the importance of pacing to maintain endurance.

11. Climbing Communication:

    • Establish clear and concise communication between the climber and belayer using verbal cues or signals.
    • Teach climbers to communicate their intentions and needs effectively.

12. Risk Management:

    • Discuss risk management strategies, including recognizing and avoiding loose rock, assessing weather conditions, and understanding the potential hazards of the climbing environment.

13. Warm-Up and Cool Down:

    • Emphasize the importance of warming up before climbing to prevent injuries.
    • Discuss the benefits of stretching and cooling down after climbing.

 

3. Traditional (Trad) Climbing:

Traditional (trad) climbing is a form of rock climbing where climbers place their own protection, such as cams and nuts, into cracks in the rock to safeguard against falls. Teaching trad climbing requires a comprehensive understanding of climbing techniques, equipment, safety measures, and decision-making. Here are some important teaching points for trad climbing:

1. Understanding Gear:
- Teach climbers about the different types of protection (cams, nuts, hexes) and their appropriate usage.
- Emphasize the importance of inspecting and maintaining gear regularly.

2. Anchor Building:
- Demonstrate proper anchor building techniques using natural features and protection.
- Teach the principles of equalization for multi-point anchors.

3. Placing Protection:
- Emphasize solid placements by considering rock quality, size, and orientation.
- Teach climbers to recognize and avoid loose rock or poor-quality placements.

4. Lead Climbing Skills:
- Focus on efficient lead climbing techniques, including route-finding and conserving energy.
- Emphasize the importance of communication between the leader and the second.

5. Belaying Techniques:
- Teach effective belaying techniques, including paying out and taking in rope quickly.
- Emphasize attentive belaying during leader falls and the need for a dynamic belay.

6. Risk Assessment:
- Develop an understanding of objective hazards, such as loose rock, weather changes, and other environmental factors.
- Teach climbers to assess the overall risk of a climb and make informed decisions.

7. Retreating Safely:
- Instruct climbers on how to safely retreat from a climb if conditions become challenging or if a mistake is made.
- Emphasize the importance of leaving gear if necessary for a safe descent.

8. Communication:
- Stress the importance of clear and concise communication between climbing partners.
- Develop a set of signals or verbal cues for effective communication on the wall.

9. Route Planning:
- Teach climbers to assess the route, including the difficulty of the climb, gear placements, and potential challenges.
- Emphasize the importance of having a clear plan and understanding escape routes.

10. Rescue Techniques:
- Provide instruction on basic self-rescue and partner rescue techniques.
- Address potential scenarios such as stuck ropes, injured climbers, or getting lost.

11. Environmental Stewardship:
- Promote Leave No Trace principles and responsible climbing practices to minimize environmental impact.

12. Mental Preparedness:
- Discuss the mental aspects of trad climbing, including managing fear, staying focused, and making sound decisions under pressure.

Remember, trad climbing involves a combination of technical skills, physical ability, and mental fortitude. It's essential to create a learning environment that allows climbers to gain hands-on experience under the guidance of experienced mentors before attempting more challenging climbs independently. Safety should always be the top priority in trad climbing instruction.

4. Ice Climbing:

Ice climbing is an extreme style that involves ascending frozen waterfalls, ice walls, or glaciers using specialized equipment like ice axes and crampons. Climbers must master techniques for efficient ice tool placements and balance on slippery surfaces.

Some of the key teaching points for ice climbing include:

1. Equipment Familiarity:

   • Introduce and explain the various types of ice climbing equipment, including ice tools, crampons, ice screws, harnesses, helmets, and specialized clothing.
   • Emphasize the importance of proper equipment maintenance and inspection.

2. Ice Assessment:

   • Teach climbers to assess ice conditions, including evaluating ice quality, thickness, and stability.
   • Discuss factors that affect ice conditions, such as temperature, recent weather, and water flow.

3. Ice Tool and Crampon Techniques:

   • Instruct climbers on proper ice tool placement and swinging techniques.
   • Teach effective crampon techniques for secure foot placements on ice.

4. Climbing Movement:

   • Emphasize efficient and fluid movement on ice, including the use of body positioning and balance.
   • Teach techniques for transitioning between different types of ice and mixed terrain.

5. Belaying Skills:

   • Instruct climbers on ice climbing-specific belaying techniques, including using an anchor, rope management, and communication.
   • Emphasize the importance of a dynamic belay to absorb the shock of a fall.

6. Anchor Building:

   • Teach proper anchor building techniques for ice, considering the unique challenges posed by frozen conditions.
   • Emphasize redundancy and equalization in anchor systems.

7. Ice Screw Placement:

   • Instruct climbers on the correct placement of ice screws for protection.
   • Discuss the factors that affect the strength and reliability of ice screw placements.

8. Falling and Catching Falls:

   • Address the dynamics of falling on ice and how to catch falls effectively.
   • Discuss strategies for minimizing the consequences of a fall, such as choosing safe areas to climb and using appropriate protection.

9. Rappelling on Ice:

   • Teach safe rappelling techniques on ice, including the use of backup systems.
   • Emphasize the importance of clear communication between the climber and belayer during descents.

10. Ice Rescue Techniques:

    • Instruct climbers on basic ice rescue techniques, including self-rescue and assisting a fallen climber.
    • Discuss strategies for responding to emergencies in a cold and icy environment.

11. Environmental Considerations:

    • Emphasize Leave No Trace principles and responsible climbing practices to minimize environmental impact.
    • Discuss the importance of respecting wildlife and preserving the fragile ecosystems often found in ice climbing areas.

12. Communication:

    • Stress clear and concise communication between climbing partners, especially given the challenging and often noisy environment of ice climbing.

13. Route Selection:

    • Teach climbers how to evaluate and select appropriate ice climbing routes based on their skill level and current conditions.
    • Discuss route-finding strategies and the importance of having alternative plans.

14. Mental Preparedness:

    • Address the mental challenges of ice climbing, including managing fear, maintaining focus, and making sound decisions under pressure.

15. Training and Conditioning:

    • Discuss physical conditioning and training specific to ice climbing, including strength training, cardiovascular fitness, and flexibility.

 

 

6. Speed climbing:

Speed climbing is a discipline in sport climbing that involves ascending a standardized climbing route as fast as possible. It became an official discipline in the world of competitive climbing and made its Olympic debut at the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympics.

Some of the key points for speed climbing include:

1. Standard Route: Speed climbing follows a standardized route known as the "speed route." This route consists of holds and placements set in a specific sequence and pattern. The route typically features a wall that must overhang by 5 degrees and consists of specific handholds and footholds known as "speed holds."

2. Fixed Routes: In competition settings, speed climbing routes are standardized and set on artificial climbing walls. The holds and placements are consistent across different competitions, allowing climbers to practice and compete on identical routes.

3. Head-to-Head Races: Speed climbing competitions often feature a head-to-head format, where two climbers race side by side on identical routes. They start at the same time from opposite sides of the wall and aim to reach the top as quickly as possible. The winner is the climber who reaches the top first, or if both climbers reach the top, the one with the faster time.

4. Speed Climbing Technique: Speed climbers use a specific set of movements and techniques optimized for rapid ascents. These techniques involve precise footwork, explosive movements, and minimal use of intermediate holds, focusing on quick and efficient upward progress.

5. Timing and Records: In speed climbing competitions, timing is crucial, and climbers aim to set personal bests or break records. The current world record times for men and women are continually improving due to the sport's increasing popularity and the refinement of techniques.

Speed climbing requires a high level of physical fitness, agility, and specific training focused on speed and efficiency. Athletes often practice extensively on speed routes to improve their times and refine their techniques. As the sport continues to gain attention and popularity, speed climbing competitions attract climbers looking to challenge themselves and set new records.

 

7. Top roping:

Top roping is a popular technique in rock climbing where the rope is anchored at the top of a route and runs down to the climber, passing through an anchor system at the top and then back down to a belayer at the bottom. The climber starts at the base of the route, and as they ascend, the rope runs through the anchor, providing support and protection in case of a fall.  This is the safest form of rock climbing.

Some of the key points for top rope climbing include:

1. Anchor Setup: An anchor is established at the top of the climbing route, usually using bolts drilled into the rock, or using artificial gear like cams, nuts, or slings. The rope is then threaded through the anchor. The initial anchoring set up is cleaned after the route is completed.

2. Belayer: A belayer manages the rope from the ground, providing slack as the climber ascends and taking in any slack to prevent a significant fall if the climber slips. The belayer also acts as a safety backup for the climber.

3. Safety: Top roping is considered one of the safer forms of climbing because the rope is anchored above the climber. In the event of a fall, the distance fallen is limited to the amount of slack in the rope, generally just a few inches to a few feet.

4. Beginner-Friendly: It's often the technique of choice for beginners as it provides a relatively low-risk way to experience climbing without needing to lead climb, where the climber clips the rope into protection as they ascend.

5. Training: Top roping allows climbers to focus on technique, as they are not concerned with placing protection while climbing. It's a great way to practice various climbing skills, such as footwork, balance, and movement on the rock.

6. Gear: Standard climbing gear is used for top roping, including a harness, a helmet, climbing shoes, a dynamic climbing rope, and a belay device for the belayer.

7. Route Varieties: Top roping can be done on different types of climbing routes, including slabs, vertical faces, or overhangs, making it versatile for climbers of different skill levels.

As a beginner in rock climbing, top roping is the go to start point for anyone that wants to progress to sport climbing, trad climbing, or ice climbing,

 

Conclusion:

Exploring and mastering different climbing styles can be a rewarding journey for climbers of all levels. Whether you're drawn to the precision of bouldering or the adventure of trad climbing, understanding and practicing these styles will help you become a well-rounded and confident climber while ensuring safety and enjoyment in this thrilling sport.

To gain a greater knowledge of these sports, and progress at a faster rate, consider hiring a coach at your local climbing gym to make the most out of your training.

 

FEATURE IMAGE COURTESY OF SCB MEDIA